A Culinary Alchemist in the Mountains
In the heart of the Macahel Valley, nestled between the rugged peaks of Turkey’s Kaçkar Mountains and the border of Georgia, lives Sevda İyem, a woman whose passion for cheesemaking has turned her guesthouse into a haven for food lovers. Her kitchen is no ordinary cookhouse—it’s a laboratory where milk transforms into edible art. With milk from her own cows, Sevda crafts cheeses that blend tradition with innovation, captivating guests with flavors as bold as the mountains themselves.
Who Is Sevda İyem?
Sevda İyem is the heart and soul of Macahel İremit Pansiyon, a charming guesthouse in a UNESCO biosphere reserve. A self-taught cheesemaker, she milks her four cows by hand each dawn, chatting with them as the bucket fills. Her creations, ranging from traditional Turkish cheeses to experimental varieties infused with local herbs, have earned her a reputation as a culinary innovator.
The Magic of the Macahel Valley
The Macahel Valley, with its lush forests and misty peaks, provides the perfect backdrop for Sevda’s craft. This UNESCO-protected region is rich in biodiversity, offering ingredients like wild herbs and honey that inspire her cheeses. The valley’s isolation fosters a deep connection to nature, which Sevda channels into every block of cheese she creates.
The Art of Cheesemaking
A Daily Ritual of Craftsmanship
Every morning, as the first light creeps over the Kaçkar Mountains, Sevda begins her day in the cowshed. Milking her cows requires a gentle yet firm touch—squeeze, don’t pull, she advises. This hands-on approach ensures the freshest milk, the foundation of her cheeses.
From Milk to Masterpiece
Sevda’s cheesemaking process is a blend of science and intuition. She churns the milk by hand, setting aside cream for breakfast and using the rest for cheese. Some cheeses are aged for months, while others are enjoyed fresh, bursting with the flavors of the valley.
Traditional Meets Experimental
Of the 15 cheeses Sevda produces, four are local staples like stringy çeçil and pungent tulum. The rest are her own inventions, incorporating ingredients like toasted sesame, zucchini flowers, or dill. This fusion of tradition and creativity sets her apart in the world of artisanal cheese.
The Role of Local Ingredients
Sevda’s cheeses are a love letter to the Macahel Valley. She uses herbs from her garden, honey from Caucasian bees, and even hazelnuts from nearby farms. These ingredients not only enhance flavor but also tie her creations to the land, making each bite a taste of the mountains.
The Guesthouse Experience
A Feast for the Senses
Guests at Macahel İremit Pansiyon are treated to more than just stunning views. Sevda’s breakfasts and dinners are a celebration of Turkish and Georgian cuisine, with her cheeses as the star. From fresh-baked bread to cherry preserves, every dish is made with love and local ingredients.
A Table Laden with Delights
A typical breakfast at Sevda’s includes an array of cheeses, olives, tomatoes, and hazelnut-tomato paste. Delicate glasses of tea, sourced from nearby plantations, wash it all down. The experience is both rustic and refined, leaving guests hungry for more.
Khachapuri: A Georgian Gem
On special request, Sevda crafts khachapuri, a Georgian cheese bread that’s a testament to her versatility. This dish, with its gooey, cheesy center, showcases her ability to blend cultures while staying true to her roots. It’s no wonder CNN raved about it.
The Charm of the Guesthouse
The guesthouse itself is a step back in time, decorated with mid-20th-century relics that add warmth and character. Picture-frame windows and cozy balconies offer breathtaking views, making it a perfect retreat for those seeking peace and flavor.
Why Sevda’s Cheeses Stand Out
A Comparison of Traditional vs. Experimental Cheeses
| Cheese Type | Characteristics | Examples | Aging Process |
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional | Rooted in local recipes, bold and familiar | Çeçil, Tulum | Weeks to months |
| Experimental | Innovative, infused with unique ingredients | Sesame-crusted, herb-infused | Days to months |
Sevda’s traditional cheeses honor the Macahel Valley’s heritage, while her experimental varieties push boundaries with unexpected flavors. Both types showcase her skill and deep connection to the land.
Pros and Cons of Artisanal Cheesemaking
Pros:
- Unique Flavors: Small-batch production allows for creative experimentation.
- Local Sourcing: Ingredients from the Macahel Valley ensure freshness and authenticity.
- Cultural Connection: Cheeses reflect the region’s Turkish-Georgian heritage.
- Sustainability: Hand-milking and local sourcing reduce environmental impact.
Cons:
- Labor-Intensive: Hand-milking and small-scale production limit output.
- Limited Reach: The guesthouse’s remote location makes distribution challenging.
- Time-Consuming: Aging some cheeses requires months of careful attention.
Sevda’s dedication to her craft outweighs these challenges, resulting in cheeses that are worth the effort.
The Cultural Significance of Cheese
A Global Tradition
Cheese has been a staple for millennia, with evidence of cheesemaking dating back over 7,000 years. From Sumerian texts to Roman records, it’s clear that cheese has long been a symbol of sustenance and ingenuity. Sevda’s work continues this ancient tradition, blending it with modern creativity.
Women in Cheesemaking
Women have historically played a vital role in cheesemaking, from European farmwives to modern artisans like Sevda. In the U.S., women like Emily Montgomery of Calkins Creamery and the mother-daughter team at Meadow Creek carry on this legacy, proving that the future of cheese is female.
Sevda’s Contribution to Culinary Arts
Sevda’s cheeses are more than food—they’re a bridge between cultures. By blending Turkish and Georgian flavors, she showcases the Macahel Valley’s unique position as a cultural crossroads. Her work elevates the region’s culinary profile, drawing food enthusiasts from around the world.
How to Experience Sevda’s Cheeses
Visiting Macahel İremit Pansiyon
For those eager to taste Sevda’s creations, a stay at her guesthouse is a must. Located in the Macahel Valley, it’s a haven for foodies and nature lovers alike. Bookings can be made through local travel agencies or directly via the guesthouse’s website, though availability is limited due to its remote location.
Getting There
- By Air: Fly into Trabzon or Batumi (Georgia), then drive to the Macahel Valley.
- By Car: Rent a car from Trabzon for a scenic drive through the Kaçkar Mountains.
- Guided Tours: Some operators offer culinary tours that include a stop at Sevda’s guesthouse.
The journey is as rewarding as the destination, with tea plantations and misty peaks along the way.
Pairing Sevda’s Cheeses
To fully appreciate her cheeses, pair them with local accompaniments:
- Fresh Bread: Enhances the texture of soft cheeses like çeçil.
- Caucasian Honey: Complements aged cheeses with its floral sweetness.
- Hazelnut Paste: Adds a nutty depth to experimental varieties.
- Turkish Tea: Balances the richness with its delicate bitterness.
People Also Ask (PAA)
What types of cheeses does Sevda İyem make?
Sevda crafts at least 15 varieties, including traditional Turkish cheeses like çeçil and tulum, and experimental ones infused with sesame, zucchini flowers, or herbs. Some are fresh, enjoyed within a week, while others are aged for deeper flavors.
Where is the Macahel Valley located?
The Macahel Valley lies in Turkey’s Kaçkar Mountains, near the border with Georgia. It’s a UNESCO biosphere reserve known for its lush forests, diverse wildlife, and rich culinary traditions.
Can you buy Sevda İyem’s cheeses online?
Currently, Sevda’s cheeses are only available at her guesthouse due to small-scale production. Visitors can purchase them on-site, but there’s no online store or widespread distribution.
How does Sevda İyem source her ingredients?
Sevda uses milk from her own cows and ingredients from her garden or the surrounding mountains. Local herbs, honey, and hazelnuts add unique flavors, tying her cheeses to the Macahel Valley’s ecosystem.
The Future of Artisanal Cheesemaking
Challenges in a Modern World
Artisanal cheesemaking faces hurdles like high labor costs and competition from factory-made cheeses. Sevda’s remote location adds logistical challenges, but her commitment to quality keeps her craft alive. Innovations like vegan cheeses, such as those made by Formo using Koji fungus, highlight the industry’s evolving landscape.
Sevda’s Legacy
Sevda’s work inspires a new generation of cheesemakers to blend tradition with innovation. Her guesthouse serves as a model for sustainable, small-scale production, proving that passion and creativity can thrive in even the most remote corners of the world.
FAQ
How does Sevda İyem make her cheeses?
Sevda milks her cows by hand, churns the milk, and uses traditional and experimental methods to create her cheeses. She incorporates local ingredients like herbs and sesame, with some cheeses aged and others served fresh.
Can I learn cheesemaking from Sevda?
While Sevda doesn’t offer formal classes, guests at her guesthouse can observe her process and learn through conversation. Staying at Macahel İremit Pansiyon offers a unique opportunity to see her craft firsthand.
What makes Sevda’s guesthouse unique?
Beyond her cheeses, the guesthouse offers stunning views, mid-20th-century decor, and a warm, family-run atmosphere. It’s a perfect blend of culinary excellence and rustic charm in a UNESCO-protected valley.
Are Sevda’s cheeses suitable for vegetarians?
Most of Sevda’s cheeses use traditional rennet, which may not be vegetarian. However, she may offer vegetarian options using microbial rennet—guests should inquire directly.
How can I book a stay at Macahel İremit Pansiyon?
Contact local travel agencies or check the guesthouse’s website for bookings. Due to its remote location, planning ahead is essential, especially during peak seasons.
Conclusion
Sevda İyem’s mountain hideaway is more than a guesthouse—it’s a testament to the power of passion, place, and persistence. Her cheeses, born from the milk of her cows and the bounty of the Macahel Valley, tell a story of tradition and innovation. For those lucky enough to visit, the experience is a feast for the senses, blending the flavors of Turkey and Georgia with the warmth of a true artisan. Whether you’re a cheese lover or simply seeking a unique escape, Sevda’s world is one worth discovering.
